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Power drill + bits — 1/4" wood bit, 3/8" concrete bit, 7/16" hanger bolt bit
Level (4-ft minimum) — critical for smooth door operation
Tape measure + pencil — for marking all reference lines
Ratchet wrench — for fully tightening lag screws and hanger bolts
Hacksaw or miter saw with metal blade — for cutting track to length
Stud finder — to locate wall studs for bracket mounting
Step ladder — track mounts near ceiling
Assistant — two people required for hanging heavy doors
02 Package contents
System type: barn bypass — dual doors slide on parallel tracks behind each other. Track lengths: 6.6 FT / 8 FT / 9 FT / 10 FT / 13 FT. Max door weight: per hanger capacity — do not exceed the rated load for your selected track. Min door thickness: 1-3/8" (35mm).
Verify all parts are present before starting. Quantities vary by track length — see table below.
This system always ships with two door panels. Both panels slide on parallel tracks — one behind the other. The opening width should be smaller than the total door width so the doors fully cover the opening when closed.
Rough opening & clearance guide
Dimension
Formula
Notes
Opening Width
Total door width − 4" minimum
e.g. 18"+18" = 36" doors → max 32" opening. Narrower opening = better light block & sound insulation.
Opening Height
Door height − 1"
e.g. 80" doors → max 79" opening. Door must clear the floor by at least 1/2"–3/4" for smooth operation.
Ceiling Clearance
Door height + 8" minimum to ceiling
e.g. 80" doors → ceiling min 88". Track hangers need headroom above the track.
Track Mount Height
Door height + 1-11/16" from floor to track centerline
This is reference Line drawn in Step 4. Must be ① perfectly level across the full wall span.
Important — Wall Gap:
The further the track is mounted from the wall (using longer spacers), the larger the visible side gap between the door panel and the wall when the doors are open. Use the shortest spacers that clear your baseboard to minimize this gap.
Track centerline must be mounted at exactly: Door Height + 1-11/16" above the finished floor. This gives correct bottom clearance for the door to swing without touching.
NOTE:
Header/beam must be solid wood or LVL to accept lag screws. For concrete walls, use masonry anchors (not included). Do NOT mount into drywall alone.
04 Step-by-step installation
Safety first
Anti-jump pads are required for safe operation. Lack of, or improperly installed, anti-jump pads may result in the door coming off the track and causing serious injury or death. Always wear eye protection when using power tools, keep full control of the tool and a clear work area, and securely clamp the door before any cutting or drilling.
Drill 7/16" holes at the distances from the top of each door panel shown below. Holes are for the Hanger Bolts.
Upper hole: 1-9/16" from top of door.
Lower hole: 3-9/16" from top of door.
Horizontal position: 2-3/8" to 3-15/16" from edge (recommended: centered on stile).
Important: Hanger Bolts insert through the BACK of the door — Acorn Nuts attach on the FRONT face.
NOTE:
Drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the door stile. Use a drill press or guide if available. Misaligned holes will cause the door to hang crooked.
Install the Anti-Jump Pad onto each hanger, positioned near the front edge of the door.
Placement: screw is near the front edge of the door — drill a pilot hole to prevent splitting.
Tightening: do NOT overtighten — the pad must be able to rotate.
Function: pad twists under the track after door is hung to prevent door from jumping off track.
NOTE:
Anti-jump pads are required for safe operation. A door without them can derail and fall. Do not skip this step.
If your opening requires it, connect track sections using Junction Plates. Install Door Stoppers loosely near each end of the track — final position is set in Step 10.
Junction plates: for 9FT, 10FT, 13FT tracks only (2 pieces per kit). Align tracks and bolt plates across the joint.
Door stoppers: slide onto track at each end and loosely tighten — do not finalize position yet.
Using a level, draw three horizontal reference lines on the wall:
Line ①: at Door Height + 1-11/16" from finished floor. This is the track centerline.
Line ②: 3-1/4" above line ①. Upper bracket hole.
Line ③: 1-3/8" above line ①. Lower bracket hole.
Align one track along line ① and mark all bracket hole positions. Hole spacing: 16" apart — align with wall studs where possible.
Wood frame: drill 1/4" pilot holes through drywall into studs.
Concrete: drill 3/8" holes with a masonry bit, insert supplied hollow wall anchors.
Upper lines: transfer hole marks upward to lines ② and ③ using a level — these must be perfectly parallel.
Mount the INSIDE (wall-side) track using Spacers, Long Lag Screws (4"), and Washers.
Tip — one-person method: loosely attach one end with screws, let the other end rest on the floor, swing up into position, then work middle holes.
Concrete wall: use hollow wall anchors ① + Spacers ② + Washers ③ + 4" Lag Screws ④.
Wood frame: Spacers ② + Washers ③ + 4" Lag Screws ④ directly into studs.
Tighten: use a ratchet. Do not overtighten — you may strip the stud.
Attach the Bypass Brackets to the wall. These hold the outer track at the correct offset from the inner track.
Method: loosely attach each bracket with Short Lag Screws (2-9/16") and washers. Use hollow wall anchors if studs are not present.
Tighten: once all brackets are aligned, fully tighten all lag screws with a ratchet.
Caution:
Do not overtighten — you may strip the anchors or studs.
Mount the OUTSIDE track to the Bypass Brackets using Track Bolts, Spacers, Washers, and Nuts.
Assembly order (per bracket): Track Bolt → Spacer ② → Washer ③ → Nut ① — tighten firmly.
Offset: the outside track should sit parallel to the inside track, separated by the thickness of one door panel + clearance (~1/2").
Level check: verify both tracks are level and parallel before tightening all nuts.
Lift each door and hang the hangers into the track wheels. One person lifts, one guides hanger into track slot.
Inner door: hangs on the inside (wall-side) track.
Outer door: hangs on the outside track.
Anti-jump pad: after hanging, TWIST the anti-jump pad toward the wall so it sits UNDER the track. This is critical.
Safety: ensure door is fully seated in track before releasing. Never let go until anti-jump pad is engaged.
WARNING:
Lack of, or improperly installed Anti-Jump Pads may result in the door coming off the track causing serious injury or death. Always ensure Anti-Jump Pads are engaged under the track before use.
Slide doors to the desired open position. Place the floor guide under the door edge, mark the location, and screw the guide to the floor.
Part a: position door at desired open position → place guide → mark → fix to floor.
Part b: slide doors to closed position → adjust Door Stoppers on track to prevent doors from sliding past the opening edge → tighten stoppers.
Floor guide gap: gap between guide and door bottom: H = 1/4" to 3/4" — see diagram.
NOTE:
The T-Shape Floor Guide is included in the kit. However, the groove cut at the bottom of the door slab is not included unless the T-Shape Guide Groove was selected separately as an add-on. If the groove cut was not ordered, it must be routed on-site by the installer before installation. The groove can be made using a router with a straight bit, a table saw, or a circular saw with a guide rail. Make sure the groove is straight, centered, and matches the T-guide thickness so the door can slide smoothly without rubbing or binding.
05 Hardware installation
Reference the parts list below throughout installation — every component shown here is described in the step-by-step sequence in Section 04.
Flat track — mounts to the wall in two parallel runs (inside and outside); carries the steel hangers along its full length (Steps 5–8).
Steel hanger — ball-bearing hanger bolted through the back of each door; rides in the track (Step 1, Step 9).
Anti-jump pad — twists under the track after the door is hung to prevent the door from jumping off the track (Step 2, Step 9).
Floor guide — keeps the bottom of each door tracking straight; standard T-shape guide included (Step 10).
Door stopper — slides onto the track to stop the doors at the fully closed position (Step 3, Step 10).
Spacer — sets the standoff distance between the track and the wall (Steps 6–8).
Junction plate — bolts two track sections together end-to-end for 9FT, 10FT, and 13FT track lengths (Step 3).
Bypass bracket — holds the outside track at the correct parallel offset from the inside track (Step 7, Step 8).
06 Optional add-on
The following items are available as optional add-ons from SartoDoors and must be specified when placing your door order. They are not included in the standard hardware kit.
T-Shape Floor Guide Groove — Add-On
A T-shaped guide that inserts into a routed groove in the bottom edge of the door slab. Completely hidden from view when installed. Provides superior lateral stability — strongly recommended for doors over 84" tall or heavier than 80 lbs per panel.
Groove specs: 1/4" (6mm) wide × 3/4" (19mm) deep — pre-routed into door bottom at factory.
Compatibility: all SartoDoors barn bypass slabs when specified at time of order.
Benefit: eliminates door swing at bottom entirely. No floor track or surface hardware visible.
ADD-ON:
T-Shape Guide Groove must be ordered at time of door purchase. The factory pre-routes the groove into the door slab bottom.
Soft-Close Mechanism — Add-On
A hydraulic damper that attaches to the track near the closed position. Slows the door in the last 12" of travel for a quiet, controlled close.
Compatible with: all SartoDoors barn bypass flat track hardware. Door must be 24" or wider.
Installation: mounts to track bracket — no door modification required.
ADD-ON:
Soft-Close Mechanism must be ordered separately. Specify track length and finish when ordering.
07 Installation errors
Common mistakes to avoid during installation:
Mounting the track out of level — even 1/8" of sag causes friction and drags the doors.
Skipping the anti-jump pad, or not engaging it under the track after hanging — the leading cause of doors coming off the track.
Installing the floor guide missing or off-center — the bottom of the door swings out instead of tracking straight.
Leaving the door stopper unadjusted — leaves a visible gap between the door and wall when closed, or lets the door slide past the opening edge.
Spacing the bypass brackets too narrow — bypass doors hit each other instead of sliding past. Increase the offset between inner and outer tracks (Step 8).
Fastening lag screws into drywall instead of solid studs or LVL — the track will pull away from the wall under door weight.
Not fully torquing lag screws with a ratchet — brackets stay loose or wobble.
Setting hangers at different heights on the two door panels — creates an uneven gap above the door. Hanger bolt holes must be equal on both panels: 1-9/16" and 3-9/16" from top.
Drilling hanger bolt holes at unequal distances from the top on the two door edges — causes the door to sag on one side.
Care guide
Periodically check that both tracks remain level and parallel; re-shim or re-fasten if they have shifted.
Recheck that anti-jump pads remain twisted under the track — vibration over time can loosen them.
Keep the floor guide clear of dust, carpet fibers, and debris so the door base continues to track straight.
Do not exceed the rated load capacity for your selected track and hangers.
Re-torque lag screws and bracket hardware annually, especially on heavily used doors.
Wipe down the tracks periodically to keep the steel hanger bearings rolling smoothly.
Interior door care guide
How to keep your doors looking their best — for years
This guide covers everything you need to keep your SartoDoors interior doors looking showroom-perfect — from weekly cleaning routines to seasonal humidity checks. It covers all finish types: wood veneer, eco-veneer (film), acrylic painted, high-gloss, and glass inserts. Go directly to the section that applies to your doors.
01 General care principles
These rules apply to all SartoDoors finishes regardless of which type you have. They form the foundation of long-term door care — ignore them and even the most durable finish will show premature wear.
SartoDoors interior doors are engineered for controlled indoor environments. They are not rated for exterior use, garages, laundry rooms with open steam, or any space where humidity regularly exceeds 70%. Installing interior doors in high-moisture zones voids the warranty and causes delamination, swelling, and finish failure regardless of finish type.
Humidity: the #1 cause of interior door damage
Keep indoor relative humidity between 35% and 55% year-round. In winter, use a humidifier in rooms where heating drives humidity below 30% — this is when veneer and solid-core doors crack or warp.
In summer, run air conditioning or a dehumidifier if humidity climbs above 60%. Never place a diffuser, humidifier, flower vase, or fish tank directly next to a door.
A consistent, gentle cleaning routine prevents the buildup of grime that forces you into harsher cleaning later. This simple process takes under two minutes and should be done weekly in high-traffic areas.
Dust first: Use a dry microfiber cloth or a soft feather duster. Always wipe with the grain (vertical strokes on most doors). Dust settles into texture grooves — never skip this step before wet-wiping.
Damp-wipe: Lightly dampen a clean microfiber cloth with plain lukewarm water. Wring it until almost dry — the cloth should feel barely moist, not wet. Wipe the surface in gentle passes.
Dry immediately: Follow with a dry microfiber cloth. Never leave water sitting on any door surface. Even briefly standing water can cause micro-lifting of finish edges.
Spot-clean smudges and fingerprints with a small amount of diluted dish soap (one drop in a cup of water) on a microfiber cloth. Rinse the spot with a barely-damp clean cloth, then dry.
Never use these on any SartoDoors finish
Bleach, ammonia, or chlorine-based cleaners (Pine-Sol, Windex, Comet, Clorox wipes).
Abrasive pads, sponges with a scratchy side, steel wool, or scrub brushes.
Acetone, nail polish remover, paint thinner, or mineral spirits.
All-purpose spray cleaners (Lysol, 409, Fantastik) — these often contain solvents.
Steam cleaners or pressure washers.
Furniture polish containing silicone (Pledge) — leaves residue that attracts dust and can cloud finishes.
Door hardware is not part of the door finish but directly affects door performance and the surface around it.
Wipe handles, knobs, and hinges with a dry or slightly damp cloth. Use a finish-matched metal cleaner for tarnish if needed, but keep the cleaner away from the door surface.
Lubricate hinges annually with a dry PTFE lubricant or a light machine oil. Squeaky hinges create vibration stress on the door panel over time.
Check door alignment every 6-12 months. A door that drags or binds at the frame is usually a hinge or settlement issue — do not sand or plane the door edge before checking hinge alignment.
Tighten loose hinge screws immediately. A loose hinge causes the door to sag and drag, which scuffs the bottom edge and the frame.
02 Wood veneer finish
Wood veneer doors have a thin layer of real hardwood — typically 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm thick — bonded to an engineered core. The grain, texture, and warmth are genuine wood, which means they respond to their environment the way wood does: expanding in humidity, contracting in dry air, and absorbing stains if left unsealed or improperly cleaned.
Unlike solid wood, veneer cannot be deeply sanded and re-finished without risk of sanding through the layer. The protective coating — whether lacquer, oil, or UV-cured polyurethane — is what separates the wood from the environment. When that coating is damaged, moisture gets in. Care for the coating first; care for the wood follows.
Understand your veneer before you clean it
Lacquered / UV-coated veneer (most common): has a clear hard film on the surface. Feels smooth. Repels moisture well.
Oiled veneer: feels slightly more matte, sometimes slightly warm to the touch. Needs re-oiling every 1-2 years.
Check your order confirmation or the door edge label for finish type.
Daily / weekly: dry microfiber cloth. Always wipe with the wood grain — cross-grain wiping can catch in texture and create micro-scratches.
Light soil / smudges: barely-damp microfiber cloth with plain water. Dry immediately. This handles 90% of cleaning needs.
Stubborn grime or greasy marks: a few drops of pH-neutral wood cleaner (Murphy Oil Soap diluted to 1/4 strength, or a product labeled safe for lacquered wood) on a damp cloth. Wipe, then rinse with a clean damp cloth, then dry.
Glass inserts (if present): clean glass with a glass cleaner sprayed onto the cloth — never directly onto the door. Wipe glass only; keep cleaner away from the veneer border.
Water is veneer's most dangerous enemy — not because of the water itself, but because of what happens when it gets under the coating and reaches the wood layer.
Signs of moisture damage to catch early
White hazy rings or marks on the surface — trapped moisture under the coating.
Slight bubbling or lifting at edges or corners — delamination beginning.
Swelling at the bottom of the door — humidity infiltrating from the floor level.
Dark staining along grain lines — moisture has reached the wood.
If you catch these early, stop the moisture source first. A furniture conservator can sometimes reverse early-stage hazing.
Never wet-mop a floor right up to the door base without immediately drying the door bottom. Use a floor protector or door sweep.
Never use a wet cloth on veneer. Barely damp only. The cloth should not leave any standing water on the surface at any point.
If water is spilled on the door, blot immediately with a dry cloth. Do not rub — rubbing spreads the water and can lift the finish edge.
✓ Do
Dust with dry microfiber, moving with the grain
Use barely-damp cloth for soil, dry immediately
Use diluted pH-neutral wood cleaner for grime
Re-oil oiled veneer every 1-2 years (product-specific)
Keep humidity 35–55% year-round
Blot spills immediately, never rub
Use door sweep at base to prevent floor moisture
Clean glass inserts with cloth, not direct spray
✕ Do not
Use wet or soaked cloths on veneer surface
Wipe cross-grain — always go with the grain
Use ammonia, bleach, or alcohol-based cleaners
Apply furniture polish with silicone (Pledge, etc.)
Sand veneer surfaces — the layer is thin
Place humidifiers or vases directly adjacent
Leave water sitting on the surface, even briefly
Use abrasive pads or scratchy sponges
If your doors have an oiled finish (this is specified in your order), the oil needs periodic replenishment as it depletes from cleaning and normal use. A properly maintained oil finish actually improves with time — an unmaintained one will look dry, dull, and eventually gray.
Re-oil frequency: every 12-24 months in normal use, or when the surface appears dry or dull when viewed in raking light.
Product to use: the same oil specified in your door documentation (typically a hard wax oil or specific wood oil). Do not substitute with linseed oil, olive oil, or cooking oils — these turn rancid and stain.
Application: apply a thin coat with a lint-free cloth, rub in with the grain, let sit 15-20 minutes, then buff off all excess. Wipe with the grain throughout. Let cure 24 hours before normal use.
Patch repair: small scratches in oiled veneer can be spot-oiled. Clean the area, apply a tiny amount of oil, buff. This often makes scratches nearly invisible.
03 Eco-veneer (film wrap) finish
Eco-veneer — also called PVC film, CPL (Continuous Pressure Laminate), or simply film wrap — is a textured decorative film applied to the door surface under heat and pressure. It accurately reproduces wood grain patterns, solid colors, and other textures. The result is a highly durable, non-porous surface that is far more moisture-resistant than real wood veneer.
Because eco-veneer is non-porous, it does not absorb water or react to humidity the way wood does — a major practical advantage in kitchens, bathrooms, and homes with children. However, the film is mechanically bonded to the substrate, and that bond can be attacked by heat, harsh chemicals, or sharp impacts.
Key characteristics of film-wrap doors
Non-porous: does not absorb spills or cleaning agents if wiped promptly.
Heat-sensitive: high local heat (curling iron, steam from cooking, direct sunlight) can soften the adhesive and cause the film to lift at edges.
Chemical-sensitive: solvents will attack the film and leave permanent marks or cause blistering.
Impact-sensitive: sharp impacts chip the film differently than wood — chips are usually visible and do not sand smooth.
Regular cleaning: dry or slightly damp microfiber cloth. Eco-veneer is the most forgiving finish to clean — most marks wipe off easily with plain water.
Dried food, crayon, or marker: slightly dampen the cloth with a diluted mild soap solution (dish soap, 2-3 drops per cup of water). Wipe the mark, then follow with a clean damp cloth, then dry.
Permanent marker or ink: a small amount of rubbing alcohol (isopropyl, 70%) on a cotton ball can remove ink. Use sparingly — blot the mark, do not rub. Test in an inconspicuous spot first. Do not use acetone.
Greasy fingerprints: diluted dish soap on a damp cloth handles these easily. The non-porous surface releases oils without needing any solvent.
Textured surface grooves: use a soft toothbrush or the corner of a microfiber cloth to dislodge grime from deep texture patterns. Always damp, never abrasive.
The most common and preventable eco-veneer failure is edge lifting caused by localized heat. Once an edge begins to lift, dust and moisture enter underneath, and the problem accelerates quickly.
Heat risks for film-wrap doors
Do not hang towels on film-wrap doors in bathrooms — the combination of damp towels and then hot air from a blow dryer is especially damaging.
Keep curling irons, flat irons, and hair dryers at least 12 inches from film-wrapped doors at all times.
Avoid mounting doors directly adjacent to cooking ranges, toasters, or other heat-producing appliances without a heat buffer.
Direct sustained sunlight through a glass panel can soften film adhesive over time — use window film or shading on glass that projects onto the door surface.
If an edge begins to lift: do not pull it. Apply gentle pressure with a clean finger to push it back. If the bond has failed, use a thin bead of PVA wood glue applied with a toothpick under the edge, press firmly, and wipe away excess immediately. Let dry under light pressure (book, weight) for several hours.
✓ Do
Clean with dry or barely-damp microfiber cloth
Use diluted dish soap for most marks and grease
Blot ink/marker with 70% isopropyl, then wipe clean
Use a soft brush for deep-grain texture grooves
Keep heat sources at least 12" from the surface
Press lifting edges back immediately, before dirt enters
PVA glue under lifted edge if bond has released
Dry after any damp cleaning
✕ Do not
Use acetone, paint thinner, or solvent cleaners
Apply steam or hot air near the surface
Hang wet towels or damp items on the door
Use abrasive sponges or pads on the film
Pull or peel lifting edges — push back instead
Use bleach or ammonia-based cleaners
Leave the door in direct sustained sunlight
Use nail polish remover for any mark
04 Painted (acrylic) and primed doors
SartoDoors painted doors use a professional acrylic coating system applied by spray in a controlled factory environment over a primed MDF core. Primed-only doors ship unfinished and require the customer to apply acrylic paint on-site before installation. Both types share the same care principles once the paint is applied.
Factory acrylic coatings are water-based and cure to a hard, cleanable film. They offer excellent color retention, flexibility across humidity cycles, and compatibility with standard mild cleaning agents. The finish is available in multiple sheen levels — matte, satin, and semi-gloss — and the care approach varies slightly by sheen (detailed below).
Regular cleaning: dry microfiber cloth for dust. A barely-damp cloth handles most smudges on acrylic without any soap.
Grime and fingerprints: a diluted solution of mild dish soap (3-4 drops per cup of warm water) on a soft cloth. Wipe, rinse with a clean barely-damp cloth, then dry.
Scuffs from shoes, furniture, or belt buckles: light scuffs often wipe away with a damp cloth on semi-gloss acrylic. If the scuff is embedded on semi-gloss, try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (melamine foam) very gently. Do not use on matte or satin finishes — the abrasion creates visible sheen differences.
Stickers or adhesive residue: apply a small amount of vegetable oil or baby oil to the adhesive, let sit 2 minutes, then wipe with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid petroleum-based adhesive removers.
Crayons or wax: remove bulk first with a plastic scraper (never metal). Then apply a small amount of white toothpaste (non-gel) with a soft cloth, wipe gently, rinse with damp cloth, dry.
Acrylic-painted and primed doors — moisture concerns
Painted MDF cores are significantly more moisture-sensitive than real wood. Water infiltrating through paint cracks causes rapid, irreversible swelling.
Keep bathroom doors with a gap at the bottom — never seal the door base to the floor with caulk in high-humidity rooms. Air must circulate.
If using a painted door in a bathroom, ensure the room has functioning exhaust ventilation.
Seal all four edges of primed doors before installation and painting. Unsealed edges absorb moisture from mopping and allow the core to swell from the inside.
Acrylic touch-ups are more forgiving than solvent-based coatings because water-based paints feather and blend better at edges. Even so, spray-applied factory finishes will show brush marks on close inspection. Manage expectations accordingly.
For small chips: clean the area with a damp cloth, dry, then apply matching acrylic paint with a fine artist's brush in multiple thin coats.
For larger areas: full panel re-painting gives the best result. Lightly sand (220 grit), wipe dust, apply a compatible acrylic primer coat, then two finish coats.
Sheen matching: always match the sheen level. A satin touch-up on a matte panel is visible even with a perfect color match.
✓ Do
Clean with dry microfiber first, then damp if needed
Use diluted mild dish soap for grime and fingerprints
Blot spills immediately — especially on MDF cores
Use Magic Eraser very gently on semi-gloss acrylic only
Seal all four edges of primed doors before painting
Ensure bathroom exhaust ventilation is working
Touch up with matching acrylic paint in thin coats
Keep a gap at the door bottom in humid rooms
✕ Do not
Use abrasive cleaners on any painted surface
Apply bleach, ammonia, or solvent-based cleaners
Use Magic Eraser on matte or satin acrylic finishes
Seal door bottoms to bathroom floors with caulk
Use petroleum-based adhesive removers
Let water pool at the base or soak the door bottom
Install primed-only doors without painting all edges first
Hang wet items on painted doors
05 High-gloss finish
High-gloss doors feature a mirror-like lacquered or UV-cured acrylic surface with a reflectivity that approaches glass. The visual effect is dramatic, but the finish demands more attentive care than matte or satin surfaces — every fingerprint, watermark, and fine scratch is amplified by the sheen.
Gloss finish — key characteristics
Highly reflective: shows fingerprints, dust, and micro-scratches far more visibly than matte or satin finishes.
Hard but brittle: the surface film is harder than standard paint, which improves scratch resistance in normal use but means any scratch that does occur is immediately visible.
Streak-sensitive: cleaning with the wrong cloth or technique leaves visible streaks. Technique matters more here than on any other finish.
Static-attractive: the smooth surface can attract fine dust particles. More frequent light dusting is needed.
Gloss surfaces require clean, lint-free microfiber and a careful sequence. The wrong technique polishes in scratches rather than removing them.
Remove dust first: use a clean, dry microfiber cloth in straight, light passes. Never use a paper towel, tissue, or cotton cloth — these are coarse enough to micro-scratch gloss under light pressure.
Damp-wipe: lightly dampen a separate clean microfiber cloth with plain distilled water (tap water leaves mineral spots on gloss). Use straight, consistent strokes — do not use circular motions, which leave visible swirl marks.
Buff dry: immediately follow with a third dry microfiber cloth using the same straight-stroke technique. Do not let water air-dry on gloss — watermarks are almost impossible to remove once dried in.
Fingerprints: a microfiber cloth with a tiny amount of diluted dish soap (1 drop per cup of distilled water) removes fingerprint oils cleanly. Follow with a damp rinse cloth, then dry immediately.
Persistent smears: a small amount of diluted white vinegar (1 part vinegar, 4 parts distilled water) on a microfiber cloth removes haze and smears effectively on gloss lacquer. Rinse with a plain damp cloth and dry.
What damages gloss finishes
Paper towels, tissues, or cotton cloths — all scratch gloss under normal wiping pressure.
Circular wiping motions — create visible swirl marks in the finish.
Tap water left to air-dry — mineral deposits etch into the surface.
Any abrasive cleaner, including baking soda, powder cleaner, or scrub pads.
Direct sunlight for extended periods — can yellow or cloud some gloss lacquer finishes over time.
Silicone-based polishes — leave a residue film that looks good initially but clouds and attracts dust.
✓ Do
Use only clean, lint-free microfiber cloths
Dust dry first before any damp cleaning
Use distilled water — tap water leaves mineral spots
Wipe in straight strokes, never circular
Buff completely dry immediately after damp cleaning
Diluted dish soap (1 drop per cup) for fingerprints
Diluted white vinegar for smears and haze
Clean frequently — less buildup means less effort
✕ Do not
Use paper towels, tissues, or cotton cloths
Wipe in circular motions — causes swirl marks
Let water or cleaning solution air-dry on the surface
Use any abrasive cleaner or scrub pad
Apply silicone-based furniture polish or Pledge
Use solvent-based or ammonia-based cleaners
Leave in direct sustained sunlight
Use the same cloth for dusting and damp-wiping
06 Glass insert care
Many SartoDoors interior doors include decorative glass inserts — frosted, clear, mirror, or opaque black glass. Each type has different cleaning needs, and all share one critical rule: keep cleaning agents away from the joint between the glass and the door panel.
The joint between glass and door panel — critical warning
The joint between glass and door panel — critical warning
The seam where the glass meets the surrounding door panel (whether MDF, veneer, or film) is the most moisture-vulnerable point on any glazed door.
Never spray or pour liquid directly onto the door surface. Always apply cleaning solution to the cloth first, then wipe.
Never allow soapy water, glass cleaner, or any liquid to run into this joint. Even a small amount that seeps through the seal and reaches the MDF core will cause irreversible swelling — the door panel will bubble, and the glass may lose its seal.
When cleaning glass inserts, work from the center of the glass outward, stopping at least 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the panel edge. Then wipe the panel separately with its appropriate cleaner.
If you see water or cleaning solution at the joint after cleaning — blot it up immediately with a dry cloth.
Frosted glass (acid-etched or sandblasted) has a textured, matte surface that scatters light. The texture traps residue more easily than clear glass and requires gentler cleaning.
Routine cleaning: a barely-damp microfiber cloth with plain water removes most dust and light soil. Wipe gently — the texture holds dirt loosely and releases it without scrubbing.
Smudges and fingerprints: diluted mild dish soap on a damp microfiber cloth. Rinse with a clean damp cloth, pat dry. Do not rub hard — aggressive rubbing drives residue deeper into the texture.
Never use: abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or anything that scratches — the frost texture is a surface treatment and cannot be restored once abraded.
Streaks on frosted glass: are rare because the texture diffuses light, but if soap residue is visible after drying, wipe gently with a plain damp cloth to remove the residue.
Clear glass panels show every smudge, water spot, and streak immediately. The approach here prioritizes streak-free results.
Best technique: spray glass cleaner (Windex or equivalent) onto a clean microfiber cloth — never directly onto the glass, as overspray will reach the joint. Wipe in straight overlapping strokes.
Mineral spots and hard water deposits: a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% distilled water on a microfiber cloth removes mineral deposits effectively. Apply, let sit 30-60 seconds, wipe, and dry.
Dry immediately: use a second dry microfiber cloth or a lint-free chamois to buff dry before the cleaning solution air-dries and leaves streaks.
Mirror glass inserts have a reflective silver or aluminum backing that is protected by a paint layer on the rear face. The mirror surface itself is the front face and is cleaned like clear glass, but with additional caution about the edges.
Clean the front face: same method as clear glass — glass cleaner applied to the cloth, straight strokes, buff dry.
Never wet the edges or back: moisture reaching the mirror backing through the edge will cause black edge spots (mirror rot) — a permanent oxidation of the silver layer. Keep the edges dry.
Never use ammonia-based cleaners on mirror: over time, ammonia attacks the silver backing through micro-pores in the edge seal. Use ammonia-free glass cleaner for mirror inserts.
Opaque black glass (also called lacquered glass or back-painted glass) is a clear glass panel with an opaque coating on the rear face. The front surface is smooth and glass-like; the back coating is more delicate.
Front face cleaning: same as clear glass. Glass cleaner on cloth, straight strokes, dry immediately. The glossy black surface shows fingerprints prominently — wipe after each use in high-traffic locations.
Never clean the back face: the opaque coating on the rear is not designed for cleaning or contact. It faces the door panel interior and should never be accessible. If the panel is ever removed, handle it by the edges only.
Avoid ammonia on opaque black glass: ammonia-based cleaners can cause hazing or discoloration of the back coating if they work around the edge. Use ammonia-free glass cleaner.
✓ Do
Apply all cleaners to the cloth first — never spray at the door
Work from center of glass outward, stop 1/2 inch from edge
Blot any moisture at the glass-to-panel joint immediately
Use microfiber cloths only — never paper towels on glass
Buff dry before solution air-dries (prevents streaks and spots)
Use ammonia-free cleaner for mirror and black glass
White vinegar solution for mineral deposits on clear glass
Wipe panel area separately with its own appropriate cleaner
✕ Do not
Spray liquid directly onto the door — always onto the cloth
Allow liquid to run into the glass-to-panel joint
Use ammonia-based cleaners on mirror or opaque black glass
Scrub frosted glass with abrasive pads or rough cloths
Wet the edges or back face of mirror panels
Use the same cloth for glass and panel surfaces
Let cleaning solution air-dry — always buff dry immediately
Use paper towels — lint and wood pulp micro-scratch glass
07 Indoor use only — no exceptions
SartoDoors interior doors are designed exclusively for interior use
Any direct contact with outdoor conditions will cause irreversible damage and immediately voids the product warranty.
Exterior installation: UV radiation, rain, freezing temperatures, and outdoor humidity will delaminate veneer and film finishes, swell MDF cores, crack paint, and cause glass seals to fail. This is not a gradual process — visible damage typically occurs within weeks.
Doors adjacent to exterior entries (mudrooms, covered porches): if the door faces an unheated, uninsulated space — or if outdoor air, rain splash, or frost can reach it — it is not in an interior environment and is not suitable for this product.
Garage installation: garages are not conditioned interior spaces. Temperature swings, vehicle exhaust humidity, and concrete floor moisture make garages incompatible with interior door products regardless of finish type.
Entry door replacement: SartoDoors interior doors must not be used as exterior entry doors. They have no weatherstripping rated for exterior exposure, no insulated core, and no structural rating for wind or impact loads.
Even within an interior installation, keep the following in mind:
Exterior-adjacent wall doors: if a door is mounted in a wall that faces the outside (e.g., a door to a cold basement stairwell, an unheated utility closet, or a door directly beside an exterior entry), condensation forms on the door surface in cold weather as warm interior air meets the cold wall. Wipe condensation promptly and ensure the wall is adequately insulated.
Direct sunlight through windows: UV radiation from windows that projects directly onto the door surface fades all finishes over time. Use window film, blinds, or shading to limit sustained direct sun exposure on door surfaces.
HVAC vents: avoid installing doors directly in the path of heating or cooling vents. Extreme localized temperature and humidity cycling causes finish cracking and dimensional instability in the door core.
08 Room-by-room guidance
The right care routine depends as much on where the door is installed as what finish it has. Here are the most common situations and what to watch for in each.
Bathrooms: the highest-risk environment
Steam from showers temporarily raises local humidity to 90–100%. This is the most aggressive environment for any interior door.
Keep the bathroom exhaust fan running during showers and for 15 minutes after. If no fan exists, open a window.
Leave the bathroom door slightly ajar after showering to let moisture escape — closing it traps steam against the door surface.
Wipe condensation off the door surface with a dry towel after each shower. This is a 10-second habit that dramatically extends door life.
Consider a painted (acrylic) or eco-veneer door for bathrooms rather than wood veneer. If you have wood veneer in a bathroom, re-seal exposed edges annually with a compatible clear varnish.
Grease is the main kitchen challenge — it accumulates in a thin invisible film on door surfaces near ranges and can be mistaken for normal discoloration until it has built up significantly.
Clean kitchen-adjacent doors monthly with a diluted dish soap solution rather than just water — dish soap is specifically formulated to cut grease.
The back of a kitchen door (facing into the kitchen) accumulates far more grease than the hall-facing side. Do not neglect it.
Do not install wood veneer doors directly adjacent to a range without a ventilation hood above the range. Grease-laden steam discolors and penetrates veneer finishes.
Doors in children's spaces deal with crayon, marker, stickers, scuffs from toys and furniture, and the occasional projectile impact.
Eco-veneer doors are the recommended choice for children's rooms — they are the most damage-resistant and easiest to clean.
Crayon and most markers come off eco-veneer and enamel with a slightly damp cloth and a small amount of dish soap. Attack while fresh — dried crayon is harder to remove.
Sticker management: remove stickers as soon as possible. The longer the adhesive contacts the finish, the more residue it leaves. Use the oil method (Section 4.2) for stubborn residue.
Scuffs at handle height are the most common wear point in children's rooms. Consider a handle that minimizes push-plate contact, and wipe this area weekly.
Low-risk environments, but a few specific concerns apply.
Sunlight exposure: sustained direct sunlight fades all interior finishes over time. Wood veneer may lighten unevenly. Film-wrap adhesive can soften. Use window film or shading to limit direct UV exposure to doors.
Candles and incense: soot from candles deposits a very fine black film on door surfaces, especially around air currents and door gaps. Regular dry-dusting removes this before it becomes difficult.
HVAC vents: avoid mounting doors directly in the path of heating or cooling vents, which cause extreme localized humidity swings and temperature cycling.
09 Seasonal maintenance checklist
Even within an interior installation, keep the following in mind:
Season
What to check and do
Fall
Turn on humidifiers before heating season starts. Check door edges for any gap widening from summer expansion. Inspect veneer or paint edges for any lifting caused by summer humidity. Lubricate hinges before the heating season.
Winter
Monitor indoor humidity with a hygrometer — heating systems can drop humidity below 30%, which shrinks wood cores and cracks finishes. Watch for gap changes between door and frame. Wipe down doors near exterior entries where cold air creates condensation.
Spring
Transition from humidifier to dehumidifier as outdoor humidity rises. Check and tighten loose hinge screws after any winter settlement. Full clean of all door surfaces — grime builds up over winter from reduced ventilation.
Summer
Run dehumidifiers or A/C if indoor humidity exceeds 60%. Check bathroom and kitchen doors for any signs of swelling or finish lifting. Wipe eco-veneer door edges if any outdoor condensation has reached them.
10 Troubleshooting common issues
Most door problems develop gradually and are easier to address when caught early. Here are the most frequent issues and what to do.
Issue
Likely cause
What to do
White rings or haze on veneer
Moisture trapped under the coating
Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly, let sit 1 hour, buff gently with a soft cloth. For persistent hazing, consult a wood care professional.
Film edge lifting
Heat, moisture, or impact near the edge
Press edge back with finger. If un-bonded, use PVA glue under the edge. Do not pull.
Paint peeling at door base
Moisture wicking from floor through unsealed bottom edge
Stop the moisture source. Re-seal the base with a clear varnish or appropriate primer. Repaint when dry.
Door swelling and binding
Humidity too high, or water contact at bottom/edges
Reduce room humidity. If the door has swollen significantly, a minor plane of the hinge-side edge may be needed — consult your installer.
Surface scratches on veneer
Normal wear or abrasive contact
On oiled veneer: spot-oil the area. On UV-coated veneer: fine scratches may buff out with a very fine polishing compound (test first). Deep scratches may need professional touch-up.
Stain or discoloration on film
Chemical contact, solvent use, or prolonged sun exposure
If solvent-caused, the damage is permanent. Sun fade: uniformly re-film is the only correction. Stains: try diluted dish soap; if ineffective, the stain is within the film layer.
Crayon on acrylic paint
Direct contact with wax crayon
Plastic scraper for bulk. White non-gel toothpaste on a cloth for the remainder. Rinse, dry.
Swirl marks on gloss finish
Circular wiping motion or rough cloth
Buff gently with a clean lint-free microfiber using straight strokes. In severe cases, a fine auto-polish compound (test first) may reduce visibility.
Glass insert clouding at edges
Moisture seeping into glass-to-panel joint
Ensure the joint is dry. Re-seal with clear neutral-cure silicone if the factory seal has failed. Do not apply water or cleaner to the joint.
Black spots at mirror edges
Mirror rot — moisture reached silver backing
Mirror rot is irreversible. The glass panel requires replacement. Prevent by keeping edges dry and using ammonia-free cleaners.
Door rattles in frame
Hinge wear or strike plate misalignment
Adjust strike plate position. Replace worn hinge with matching hardware. Do not modify the door panel.
11 Warranty and support
SartoDoors limited warranty — care-related notes
The SartoDoors warranty covers manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship.
Damage resulting from improper cleaning, chemical exposure, moisture from improper installation, or failure to maintain appropriate indoor humidity is not covered.
Installing interior doors in bathrooms without adequate ventilation, or in exterior-adjacent locations, may void the warranty.
Primed doors shipped unfinished must be painted with acrylic paint on all six surfaces (including all four edges) before installation. Warranty claims arising from moisture damage on unfinished edges will not be accepted.
Keep your purchase documentation and order number. Some claims require proof of purchase and the specific product model.
When to call SartoDoors
Most care and maintenance issues described in this guide can be handled without professional assistance. Contact SartoDoors customer support when:
A finish defect appears within the first 12 months that is not related to cleaning or installation error — this may be a manufacturing claim.
You are unsure whether a problem is a warranty issue or normal wear.
You need a matching touch-up paint or film color reference for a specific door model.
You need guidance on whether a product or cleaner is safe for your specific door finish.
Quick reference
The SartoDoors warranty covers manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship.
Damage resulting from improper cleaning, chemical exposure, moisture from improper installation, or failure to maintain appropriate indoor humidity is not covered.
Installing interior doors in bathrooms without adequate ventilation, or in exterior-adjacent locations, may void the warranty.
Primed doors shipped unfinished must be painted with acrylic paint on all six surfaces (including all four edges) before installation. Warranty claims arising from moisture damage on unfinished edges will not be accepted.
Keep your purchase documentation and order number. Some claims require proof of purchase and the specific product model.
Safe for all SartoDoors finishes
Dry microfiber cloth — always safe, always first
Barely-damp microfiber with plain lukewarm water
Diluted mild dish soap (3-4 drops per cup of water)
pH-neutral wood cleaner diluted to 1/4 strength (veneer only)
70% isopropyl alcohol, applied sparingly, blotted not rubbed (film only — test first)
Ammonia-free glass cleaner applied to cloth (never sprayed at the door) — for glass inserts only!
Do Not
Bleach, ammonia, or chlorine cleaners
Acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits
All-purpose spray cleaners (Lysol, 409, Windex)
Silicone furniture polish (Pledge)
Abrasive sponges, steel wool, or scrub pads
Steam cleaners
Warranty
This SartoDoors Bypass Barn Door Hardware kit is covered under the applicable SartoDoors limited hardware warranty. Registration is not required to activate coverage.
Installation by a non-certified installer does not affect or reduce warranty coverage.
A repair visit is the primary remedy offered for a covered warranty claim.
Warranty coverage applies to manufacturing defects in materials and hardware components; it does not cover damage from improper installation contrary to this guide, misuse, exceeding the rated load, or operating the door without properly engaged anti-jump pads.
Warranty term2 yearsfrom date of delivery to original purchaser
CoverageALL SARTODOORS INTERIOR DOOR PRODUCTS AND INCLUDED HARDWAREregardless of purchase channel
01Warranty coverage and term
SartoDoors is a product brand owned and operated by VDOM INC. This limited warranty is issued directly by VDOM INC. as the manufacturer of all SartoDoors interior door products. It applies to every customer who purchases a SartoDoors door — whether through United Porte Inc., Amazon, Home Depot, or any authorized dealer — and covers the same scope regardless of the sales channel. No retailer or reseller can change, expand, or reduce the terms of this warranty on behalf of VDOM INC.
SartoDoors interior doors are designed, engineered, and finished in Europe. They are warranted to be free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal residential indoor use for a period of two (2) years from the date of delivery to the original purchaser.
Term
Two (2) years
Start
Date of delivery, per shipping or delivery confirmation
End
Twenty-four (24) months from the Start date
Who Is Covered
Original purchaser at the original installation address only. Non-transferable.
Where Purchased
Coverage is identical whether purchased directly, via Amazon, Home Depot, or any authorized dealer.
Most SartoDoors interior doors are sold as a complete pre-hung kit ready for installation. All components listed below are covered under this warranty when supplied by SartoDoors as part of the original order:
Component
Details
Door slab
1 1/2 – 1 3/4 in. thick; finish varies by model: eco-veneer (film), acrylic paint, high-gloss lacquer, or wood veneer.
Door frame — jamb set
Split-jamb or standard jamb, sized to the ordered wall thickness.
Casing — trim profiles
Decorative surround for both faces of the opening, finished to match the door.
Hinges
2–4 pcs per leaf; European-standard concealed or surface-mounted depending on model.
Handle set
European lever handle, passage or privacy function, in the finish selected at order.
Latch or lock
Passage latch (no locking), privacy lock (interior turn-button), or keyed lock as ordered.
Strike plate
Supplied loose or factory-installed on the jamb.
Fastening hardware
Screws and bolts required for handle and hinge installation.
Slab-only orders and specialty configurations
Slab-only: warranty covers the door panel and its finish only. Frame, casing, and hardware are not included and not covered.
French door sets: each leaf is covered individually under the same terms; the pair is treated as two door units.
Pocket doors: warranty covers the slab and all supplied track hardware. The pocket rough-in frame is covered only if supplied by SartoDoors.
Barn doors: warranty covers the slab and the supplied rail and hanger set.
Bifold and bypass closet doors: all slabs and track hardware in the kit are covered.
Hidden doors: the slab, hidden frame system, magnetic latch, and concealed hinge mechanism are all covered.
02What is covered
SartoDoors stands behind the quality of its products. The following defects are covered when they appear under normal residential use within the Warranty Period.
Warping or twisting of the door panel exceeding 3/16 in. (5 mm) measured diagonally, under normal indoor humidity (35–65% RH) within 24 months of delivery
Lifting or delamination of the eco-veneer surface from the substrate, in areas not exposed to localized heat sources (hair dryers, flat irons, steam).
Peeling, cracking, or loss of adhesion in the factory-applied acrylic finish, where the damage is not attributable to impact, chemical exposure, or abrasive cleaning.
High-gloss lacquer finish: visible bubbling, crazing, or delamination that originates in the factory application and is not the result of solvent contact or impact.
Wood veneer delamination, where the door was used in a properly ventilated interior environment with relative humidity maintained within the rated range.
Manufacturing defects in glass inserts (frosted, clear, or opaque): bubbles, inclusions, distortion, or visible imperfections not present at delivery.
Failure of the factory-applied sealant between a glass insert and the surrounding door panel, appearing within 12 months of delivery and not caused by liquid contact at the joint.
Structural failure or splitting of the door frame (jamb) under normal residential conditions.
Finish delamination or peeling of casing and trim profiles, consistent with the finish defects described in Section 2.1.
Dimensional errors in the frame components that prevent correct assembly per the supplied instructions.
Handle set: lever or knob that becomes stiff, loose, or detached under normal use; finish peeling within the warranty period.
Latch mechanism: failure to retract or engage under normal hand pressure.
Hinges: failure or visible deformation under the rated door weight and normal residential traffic.
Privacy lock cylinder or turn-button: failure under normal key operation or normal interior use.
Barn door hardware: failure of roller, hanger, or track causing the door to derail or cease sliding, where the door weight is within the rated capacity of the hardware.
Pocket door track: failure preventing smooth operation, where the cause is not building settlement or an obstruction within the wall cavity.
Bifold / bypass hardware: mechanism failure causing the door to bind or jump the track under normal use.
Concealed hinge mechanism: failure of the concealed hinge, pivot mechanism, or magnetic latch under normal residential use.
03What is not covered
The following situations and damage types fall outside the scope of this warranty. SartoDoors has written these exclusions to be straightforward — they apply when the product is not at fault.
Interior use only — no exceptions: SartoDoors interior doors are designed and tested for use inside conditioned living spaces. Installing these doors in a garage, unheated outbuilding, unconditioned basement, or any exterior-facing position will cause irreversible damage and voids all warranty coverage. These doors are not weatherproofed, not UVstabilized for outdoor exposure, and not structurally rated for exterior wind or impact loads.
Humidity outside the rated range: warping, swelling, shrinking, or finish cracking caused by sustained indoor humidity above 70% or below 20%. SartoDoors doors are rated for 35–65% RH. A bathroom without exhaust ventilation, or a home with no humidification in a dry winter, does not provide the required operating environment. A basic hygrometer is an inexpensive tool for verifying your indoor conditions.
Direct heat sources: finish damage from hair dryers, flat irons, countertop appliances, or sustained direct sunlight through windows onto the door face. The eco-veneer and high-gloss lacquer finishes are sensitive to temperatures above 140°F (60°C).
Water at the glass-to-panel joint: this is the most common preventable claim situation for glazed SartoDoors doors. The joint between any glass insert and the surrounding MDF panel is the most moisture-sensitive point on the door. Cleaning solution, water spray, or condensation that enters this joint will reach the MDF core and cause irreversible swelling that pushes the panel face outward around the glass. This is not repairable and is not a manufacturing defect. Always apply cleaning liquids to a cloth first, and wipe outward from the center of the glass toward — but not into — the joint.
SartoDoors pre-hung kits ship disassembled. The frame and casing require on-site assembly per the supplied instructions. Damage resulting from assembly errors is not covered, including:
Door panel binding caused by a frame that was not checked for plumb, level, and square before fastening.
Hinge pull-through caused by using screws that are too short for the hinge leaf depth, or by stripping screws during installation.
Panel surface damage caused by the door rubbing against the jamb due to uneven shimming.
Latch misalignment caused by strike plate installed without adjusting for door reveal.
Handle bore area damage caused by re-drilling or widening the pre-cut bore in the factory slab.
If your door was installed by a professional and an alignment or fit problem develops, contact us before submitting a formal claim. Many fit issues resolve in minutes with a hinge adjustment or strike plate move, with no parts required.
Physical impact: chips, scratches, cracks, or dents from contact with furniture, door hardware, pets, tools, or any external object. SartoDoors doors are not impact-rated.
Improper cleaning: surface damage from ammonia, bleach, acetone, all-purpose spray cleaners, Magic Eraser on matte or satin finishes, or steam cleaners. The SartoDoors Interior Door Care Guide lists approved cleaning products.
Unauthorized changes: drilling, cutting, painting, or hardware replacement not performed according to the door manufacturer's instructions. Applying adhesive films, decals, or tint to glass inserts voids glass coverage.
Normal wear: scuffs at door-handle height from normal daily use, gradual sheen change in high-traffic areas over time, and minor hardware finish wear are expected and are not defects.
Third-party hardware: handles, hinges, tracks, or latches not supplied by SartoDoors as part of the original order.
Slab-only doors not painted on all edges: primed slabs installed without sealing all six surfaces — including the top edge, bottom edge, hinge edge, and lock edge — with finish-grade acrylic paint before installation are excluded from moisture-related coverage.
Touch-up painting: brush-applied touch-up paint will not match a factory spray finish in sheen or surface texture. This is a known limitation of brush application, not a product defect.
Accessories purchased separately: additional handles, hinges, locks, or tracks bought outside the original kit order carry a 2-year warranty from their individual delivery date.
04Installation and assembly
SartoDoors pre-hung door kits arrive in separate packages: the door slab, frame components, casing profiles, and a hardware package. The frame requires on-site assembly and installation. No specialized certification is required for warranty coverage. United Porte Inc. offers professional installation in selected US markets — contact sales@sartodoors.com to check availability.
Key steps that prevent the most common issues
For primed-only slabs: apply two coats of acrylic paint to all six surfaces — slab faces, top edge, bottom edge, hinge edge, and lock edge — before installation. The bottom edge in particular is exposed to floor moisture and must be sealed.
Keep this door in a conditioned interior space from the day it arrives. Do not stage it in an unheated garage or damp basement — even a few days of improper storage can cause the panel to absorb moisture.
Do not install SartoDoors doors in garages, mudrooms open to the exterior, unheated spaces, or any room where outdoor air, rain, or frost can reach the door.
05How to submit a warranty claim
All claims must be submitted in writing using the Claim Form in Appendix B. Informal reports by phone call, text, or social media are not formal claim submissions and will not be tracked in our warranty system.
A surprising number of reported issues can be fully resolved in a short phone or email conversation, with no parts and no formal claim. Please reach out first:
The door is binding or not closing fully: this is almost always a hinge or strike plate adjustment, not a defect. Our support team can walk you through it in minutes.
The handle feels stiff or the latch doesn't engage cleanly: typically a strike plate position issue. Resolved on-site in under 10 minutes.
There is a small gap at the top corner of the door: hinge adjustment. No parts needed
A surface mark won't wipe off: check the SartoDoors Care Guide first — the right method often removes marks that seem permanent.
If in doubt, email a photo to sales@sartodoors.com with your order number. We will tell you within 48 hours whether it is a warranty issue, a quick fix, or a care guide situation.
Email the completed Claim Form (Appendix B) to sales@sartodoors.com with subject: WARRANTY CLAIM – [Your Order Number].
Acknowledgment within 48 business hours of receiving your complete submission.
Review our team evaluates documentation and photographs. Most claims are assessed within 5–10 business days.
Written determination approval, partial approval, or denial with the basis explained clearly.
Resolution see Section 6 for remedy options and what to expect next.
Completed Claim Form (Appendix B) with all fields filled.
Proof of purchase: order number, invoice, or purchase confirmation.
Proof of delivery date: shipping confirmation or delivery receipt.
Photographs: at minimum, four clear images — (a) the full door from one side, (b) the full door from the opposite side, (c) a close-up of the specific problem, (d) the wider context of the problem area showing surrounding panel or frame.
For handle or latch claims: a short video (15–30 seconds) showing the mechanism behavior is significantly more useful than photos.
For glass-related claims: photos taken as soon as the issue was discovered. If the glass cracked suddenly, describe the circumstances in detail on the Claim Form.
Assembly documentation (if available): completed Checklist (Appendix A) or the name of your installer
06Claim evaluation, remedies, and timeline
Every SartoDoors warranty claim is evaluated against the same criteria and the same terms. The outcome is determined by the documentation and the facts — not by negotiation or relationship. Our goal is to acknowledge every claim within 48 hours and resolve it as efficiently as the situation allows.
When a claim is approved, SartoDoors will choose the most appropriate remedy from the following options. The selection is at SartoDoors' sole discretion based on what will most effectively resolve the issue:
Repair visit — a SartoDoors or United Porte technician comes to your home to assess and, where possible, fix the issue on the spot. A Repair Visit is offered first whenever there is a reasonable chance it will resolve the problem. On-site resolution is faster for everyone. Typical outcomes from a Repair Visit: hinge adjustment correcting a binding or sagging door, strike plate repositioning for a latch that won’t catch, handle re-seating or tightening, latch lubrication, minor surface touch-up. Available in markets where United Porte operates; contact us to confirm coverage for your area.
Parts replacement — SartoDoors provides replacement components: handle set, latch, hinge, section of casing, glass insert, or door panel section. Standard in-stock parts ship within 2–4 weeks of claim approval. The customer is responsible for installation of replacement parts unless a Repair Visit is arranged alongside the parts delivery.
Door replacement — when a defect cannot be repaired and no replacement part can resolve it, SartoDoors replaces the complete door unit with one of equal or superior specification. The replacement unit carries the remaining term of the original warranty, or a minimum of 90 days from delivery, whichever is longer.
How a repair visit works
A Repair Visit is covered under warranty at no charge to you when the claim is approved. Scheduling: a SartoDoors or United Porte representative will contact you within 5 business days of claim approval to schedule a convenient time. What a Repair Visit typically resolves: door binding (hinge adjustment), latch not catching (strike plate), handle loose or stiff, casing gap, minor surface mark touch-up. What requires parts before or after the visit: glass insert replacement, door panel replacement, full handle set swap. The Repair Visit will confirm the scope; parts are ordered immediately after
Step
Target Timeframe
Claim acknowledged
Within 48 business hours of complete submission
Evaluation and decision
Within 10 business days for standard cases
Repair Visit scheduled
Within 5 business days of approval (where United Porte operates)
In-stock replacement parts dispatched
Within 2–4 weeks of approval
Made-to-order parts from European factory
Up to 4 calendar months from approval
Full door replacement
Up to 4 calendar months, subject to model and production schedule
A note on the 4-month timeframe
SartoDoors doors are made to order in Europe. Replacement panels, glass inserts, and complete doors in specific finishes, sizes, or configurations are not warehoused domestically in large quantities. When your replacement needs to be manufactured and shipped from Europe, four months is an honest and realistic estimate. SartoDoors will give you a written delivery date estimate within 5 business days of approval and will update you promptly if that date changes. We do not consider a claim closed until your remedy is in your hands and the issue is resolved.
07Limitation of liability
TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT ALLOWED BY APPLICABLE LAW, THE REMEDIES IN SECTION 6 ARE YOUR SOLE AND EXCLUSIVE REMEDY UNDER THIS WARRANTY. SARTODOORS AND VDOM INC. SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR:
Any incidental, consequential, indirect, special, or punitive damages — including loss of use, property damage to adjoining surfaces, or any other loss arising from the failure of a SartoDoors product — even if SartoDoors was made aware of the possibility of such damages.
The cost of removing or reinstalling flooring, wall finishes, paint, or other materials that must be disturbed to perform warranty repair.
Delays in delivery of replacement components caused by international manufacturing and shipping lead times as described in Section 6.3.
Some states do not permit exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, or restrictions on the duration of implied warranties. These limitations may not apply to you in full. This warranty gives you specific legal rights; you may also have other rights that vary by state.
08Governing law and dispute resolution
This warranty is governed by the laws of the State of New York, without regard to conflict of law rules. Any dispute arising from this warranty that the parties cannot resolve through direct communication will be submitted to binding arbitration before the American Arbitration Association (AAA) under its Consumer Arbitration Rules, in Richmond County, New York. The arbitrator's decision is final and binding on both parties. Either party may separately seek injunctive or equitable relief from a court of competent jurisdiction where necessary to prevent irreparable harm. Nothing in this warranty limits any rights you may have under applicable consumer protection law.
Complete this checklist during installation and keep a copy. If you submit a warranty claim involving a fit, alignment, or performance issue, this record helps us evaluate it and speeds up resolution.
Fill out this form if you need to file a warranty claim. Complete every field, attach photographs and video where indicated, and email your submission to sales@sartodoors.com with the subject line: WARRANTY CLAIM – [Order Number]. Incomplete submissions will be returned.
FAQ
At least 8" above the door height (e.g. 80" doors need 88" minimum ceiling height) so the track hangers have headroom during installation and operation.
Opening width = total door width − 4" minimum. Opening height = door height − 1". Track mount height = door height + 1-11/16" from the floor to the track centerline.
The standard T-shape floor guide is included in the kit, but the groove cut in the door bottom is not — it must either be ordered as a factory add-on or routed on-site by the installer before installation.
No. The header/beam must be solid wood or LVL to accept lag screws. For concrete walls, use masonry anchors. Never mount into drywall alone.
Do not skip them. Anti-jump pads are required for safe operation — a door without them, or with pads not properly engaged under the track, can derail and fall, causing serious injury or death.
The bypass bracket spacing is too narrow. Loosen the bracket assembly and increase the offset between the inner and outer tracks (Step 8).
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